Fast fashion, characterized by the rapid production of low-cost garments, is causing a huge decline in the quality of second-hand clothing. Many of these cheaply made garments are of such poor quality that they cannot be resold.
The low durability of materials like polyester leads to clothing that falls apart after just a few washes, making them unfit for resale. This is undermining the second-hand market, which traditionally thrives on the idea of giving garments a second life.
Fast fashion also relies on low-cost labor in developing countries. Workers, often in sweatshops, face harsh conditions, with long hours and minimal pay. The push for speed in production means that workers are frequently under extreme pressure to produce large volumes quickly, leading to exploitative practices.
Explosive Growth of Fast Fashion
Fast fashion has experienced explosive growth since its inception in the 1990s. Its rise can be attributed to brands like Zara, H&M, and later companies like Shein, which embraced a model of producing clothes quickly and at a low cost, leading to a rapid turnover of styles.
- Initial Growth in the 1990s and 2000s
The fast fashion industry began gaining traction in the 1990s when brands such as Zara and H&M introduced new collections every few weeks rather than following the traditional biannual fashion season. This shift created a constant demand for new, affordable clothes, driving rapid growth in sales. By 2010, Zara’s revenue had surged, and its parent company, Inditex, became one of the largest retailers globally. - Acceleration in the 2010s
Fast fashion accelerated during the 2010s due to the rise of e-commerce and social media platforms that encouraged a “buy now, wear once” mentality. Between 2000 and 2014, the number of clothing items purchased globally doubled. According to a report by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, clothing production doubled during this period, with consumers buying 60% more clothes but keeping them for half as long as they did 15 years earlier. - Entry of Ultra-Fast Fashion
The late 2010s and early 2020s saw the advent of “ultra-fast fashion” brands like Shein, which embraced even faster production models by offering thousands of new styles weekly. This accelerated production cycle helped Shein become the world’s largest fashion retailer by sales volume in 2022, with revenues exceeding $10 billion in that year. Ultra-fast fashion companies benefit from digital marketing and direct-to-consumer sales channels, further increasing their reach. - Market Share and Sustainability Concerns
As of 2023, fast fashion made up nearly 60% of the global apparel industry. However, concerns over its environmental and social impacts are becoming more prominent, and while the second-hand market is growing, it has not yet curbed the rise of fast fashion.
The industry’s explosive growth has been propelled by its ability to meet the demands of modern consumers for affordability and style variety. However, as awareness of sustainability grows, the sector may face increasing pressure to adapt.
Environmental Toll of Fast Fashion
Fast fashion’s environmental impact is staggering. The European Parliament estimates that the fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions, more than international aviation and shipping combined. In addition, producing just one cotton T-shirt requires 2,700 liters of water—enough to sustain an adult for over two years. Despite these alarming statistics, many consumers are unaware of the full extent of the damage caused by their fast fashion habits.
To address the environmental and ethical challenges of fast fashion, the European Union and countries like France have begun implementing regulations. These include initiatives such as digital product passports, which provide transparency about the origins and materials of products. In France, new laws prohibit advertising for ultra-cheap products and introduce environmental surcharges. However, these measures are only part of the solution. A critical component is consumer education, particularly for younger generations, to foster more sustainable shopping habits.
The Second-Hand Market’s Growth and Sustainability Challenges
Fast fashion encourages a culture of disposability. With constant new collections and low prices, consumers are tempted to overbuy and dispose of clothes after just a few wears. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 85% of textiles in the U.S. end up in landfills annually…
Many fast fashion brands have started to market “sustainable” collections. However, these efforts are often criticized as greenwashing because the environmental benefit of these collections is overshadowed by the overwhelming negative impact of the rest of their production practices.
The quality of fast fashion today differs from the past in several key ways:
1. Material Degradation
Fast fashion primarily uses cheaper synthetic materials like polyester, which is less durable than natural fibers such as cotton or wool, which were more common in earlier fashion. These materials are prone to pilling, stretching, and losing shape quickly after a few washes, a contrast to the sturdier, longer-lasting materials used in past decades.
2. Construction Quality
In previous decades, garments were often hand-stitched or made with more attention to detail, ensuring seams and finishes were secure. Today, fast fashion is mass-produced with lower-quality stitching techniques, leading to garments that are more prone to tears and loose threads soon after purchase.
3. Production Speed and Its Consequences
With the goal of producing large quantities rapidly, fast fashion garments are not inspected thoroughly for defects. This contrasts with traditional fashion practices where garments were produced at a slower pace, allowing for better quality control. The rush to meet high consumer demand often leads to poorly constructed items.
4. Lack of Longevity
Clothes from previous decades were typically made with the intention of being worn for years. Fast fashion, however, prioritizes trends over longevity, with many items designed to be worn only a few times before falling apart or going out of style
While fast fashion’s popularity continues, the second-hand market, particularly online, is expanding rapidly. Platforms like Vinted are driving this growth, with young consumers embracing second-hand shopping as a more sustainable and unique alternative to fast fashion. This market is growing three times faster than the overall fashion industry and is expected to double in size by 2030. However, sustainability challenges remain, as the logistical costs associated with transporting second-hand goods still contribute to environmental impact.
A Need for Structural and Cultural Change
Addressing the fast fashion crisis requires both systemic industry changes and a shift in consumer behavior. Critical consumption, transparency in production chains, and a focus on durable, high-quality products are essential to reducing the environmental and social damage caused by the fashion industry.